How Martin Margiela Designed One of the Most Controversial Fashion Pieces

The Story of Maison Margiela's Tabi Shoes
Maison Margiela's iconic split-toe Tabi shoe.
They are bold, defiant, eye-catching and probably one of the most controversial pieces of fashion there is. People love them, people shun them. They proclaim that aesthetics is about much more than a superficial look.
Surprising as it may seem, the origin of the tabi and the inspiration for Martin Margiela's distinctive design actually dates back five centuries, making Margiela's Tabi shoe a reinterpretation of Japanese culture.

Belgian designer Martin Margiela wasn't the one who originally created his former Maison's most recognisable fashion piece. Instead, he has a knack for deconstructing and reconstructing. Inspired by Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, Margiela travelled to Tokyo in the 80s, where he was inspired to create the famous hoof-shaped shoe.

The tabi silhouette actually dates back to 15th century Japan, when tabi began as socks. At the time, they were worn with traditional sandals such as geta, as the split toe design provided stability and agility. Later they became a symbol of social hierarchy, with purple and gold socks worn by the upper classes and blue by the commoners. Then, in the 1920s, rubber soles were added, giving rise to the so-called jika-tabi. So we can see that Margiela's famous tabi shoe is in fact inspired by long-standing Japanese culture.

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On his return from Japan, Martin adopted the tabi silhouette as he wanted to "create an 'invisible' shoe, the illusion of a bare foot walking on a high, chunky heel".
When Geert Bruloot opened the small shoe shop Coccodrillo in Antwerp with his partner Eddy Michaels, Martin came to present his shoe collection - with the intention of selling it. Bruloot and Michaels were so taken by Margiela's enthusiasm and his eye for the unconventional avant-garde that they immediately bought stock. It was also Bruloot who introduced Margiela to Mr Zagato, the man who was later in charge of manufacturing the Tabi shoe.

In 1988, Margiela's split-toe boot was first presented on the catwalk. During the show, the models walking down the catwalk left a trail of footprints on the white floor as their Tabi shoes had been dipped in red paint beforehand, bringing to life Martin's idea of drawing attention to his new footwear. The stained runway material was then used to create a waistcoat - held together with brown tape - that marked the opening look of Margiela's show the following year (A/W 89).
With a limited budget early in his career, the visionary designer wasn't able to create new shoes every season, so he was urged to continue with the tabi silhouette. "But after a few collections, people started asking for them. And they wanted more... and they didn't stop asking, thank God," says Martin.

The success story of Margiela's iconic Tabi boot unfolds from there, leaving no doubt that they are now known all over the world. Martin himself says: " [...] [They are] the most important footprint of my career: it's recognizable, it still goes on after 25 [now even more than 35] years, and it has never been copied". His last statement isn't entirely true. In fact, there are plenty of other brands, such as Nike, Suicoke and Vetements, that adopted and reinterpreted the split toe design, underlining the allure of the unexpected and unconventional the tabi style upholds.

However, la Maison Margiela itself continues to innovate and reinvent its famous Tabi shoe. For example: Margiela's Tabi silhouette was first introduced for women. In the years since Martin left the Maison, the distinctive design has been launched for men as well. What's more, if you want to purchase a pair of Tabi shoes yourself, you'll not only find a wide range of colors and designs, but also a variety of styles, including ballet flats, heels and boots.

So what makes the Tabi boot so appealing?
Margiela's famous Tabi boots undoubtedly turn heads and raise questions such as "Are they really comfortable? They are seen as controversial and some may even find them inappropriate. Yet, Tabi shoes embody artistry, uniqueness and distinctiveness. They exude a special kind of allure and are provocative at the same time. However, no one can deny that Martin Margiela has succeeded in reinventing traditional Japanese footwear - rich in history - to create something unusual and unexpected, underlining the Maison's avant-garde concept of fashion.
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