How Martin Margiela designed one of the most controversial fashion pieces
The story of Maison Margiela's Tabi shoes
Maison Margiela's iconic split-toe Tabi shoe.
They are bold, defiant, eye-catching and probably one of the most controversial fashion pieces that exist. People love them, people shun them. They proclaim that aesthetics are about much more than just taking a superficial look.
As surprising as it may seem, the origin of the tabi and the inspiration for Martin Margiela's distinctive design actually dates back five centuries, making Margiela's Tabi shoe a reinterpretation of Japanese culture.

Belgian designer Martin Margiela hasn't been the one who originally created his former Maison's most recognisable fashion piece. Instead, he has had a knack for deconstructing and reconstructing. Being inspired by Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, Margiela traveled to Tokyo in the 80s where he got inspired to design the famous hoof-like shoe.

Actually, the tabi silhouette originates from 15th century Japan as tabi initially began as socks. At this time, they were worn with traditional sandals like geta as the split-toe design provided stability and agility. Later on, they became an emblem of social hierarchy, whereat purple and gold socks were worn by upper class and blue ones by commoners. Then, in the 1920s, rubber soles were added, giving rise to the so called jika-tabi. Thus, we can see that Margiela's famous Tabi shoe - as a matter of fact - is inspired by long-lasting Japanese culture.

After his return from Japan, Martin adopted the tabi silhouette as he "wanted to create an 'invisible' shoe, the illusion of a bare foot walking on a high, chunky heel". Then, as Geert Bruloot opened the small shoe store Coccodrillo with his partner Eddy Michaels in Antwerp, Martin came in to present his shoe collection - upholding the intention to sell it. Bruloot and Michaels - inclined by Margiela's enthusiasm and his eye for the unconventional avant-garde - immediately bought stock. Moreover, it has been Bruloot who introduced Margiela to Mr Zagato, the man who was later in charge of manufacturing the Tabi shoe.

In 1988, Margiela's split-toe boot was presented on the catwalk for the first time. During the show, the models who were walking down the runway left a trail of footprints on the white ground as their Tabi shoes were dipped in red color in advance, bringing Martin's idea to attract attention for his new footwear to life. Afterwards, the stained runway material was used to create a waistcoat - held together with brown tape - marking the opening look of Margiela's show in the following year (A/W 89).
As the visionary designer was limited in budget in the beginning of his career, he wasn't able to craft new shoes for each season, urging him to continue with the tabi silhouette. "But after several collections people started asking for them. And they wanted more... and they didn't stop asking, thank God!", Martin says.

The success story of Margiela's iconic Tabi boot unfolds from there, leaving no doubt that they are known the world-over by now. Martin himself deems: " [...] [They are] the most important footprint of my career: it's recognizable, it still goes on after 25 [now even more than 35] years, and it has never been copied". His last remark not being completely true. In fact, there are plenty of other brands such as Nike, Suicoke and Vetements which adopted and reinterpreted the divided toe design, underling the allure of the unexpected and unconventional the tabi style upholds.

Yet, la Maison Margiela itself keeps on innovating and reinventing its renowned Tabi shoe. As an example: Margiela's tabi silhouette was initially introduced for women. Just in the years after Martin left the Maison, the distinctive design was launched for men as well. On top of that, you'll not only find a great amount of colors and designs if you want to purchase a pair of Tabi shoes yourself, but also a variety of styles including ballet flats, heels and boots.

So what makes the Tabi boot so appealing?
Margiela's renowned Tabi boot unarguably turns heads and raises questions such as "Are they really comfortable?" They are seen as controversial and some may even think that they are inept. Nevertheless, Tabi shoes embody artistry, uniqueness and distinctiveness. They exude a special kind of allure, while also being provocative.
Though, no one can negate that Martin Margiela has successfully been able to reinvent traditional Japanese footwear - rich in history - to create something unusual and unexpected, underlining the Maison's avant-garde concept of fashion.
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