Simon Porte Jacquemus Returns to his Roots with Le Paysan

Simon Porte Jacquemus's collections have always been a canvas for his creativity and personality. Yet his newest collection, Le Paysan (The Peasant), is an ode to his deeply personal story, his roots in southern France, and his family. Through this homecoming, the designer illustrates the emotions woven into his garments, which have a soul that connects the past with the present and emphasizes simplicity. In doing so, he once again proves his talent for storytelling, creating a film that speaks louder than words.
On Sunday, June 29, 2025, the l'Orangerie at the Château de Versailles was transformed into a runway that recounted the story of a young boy from southern France whose heart was filled with dreams. This actually is the second time Jacquemus has taken over Versailles, following its Le ChouChou collection in 2023. For Le Paysan, the l'Orangerie turns out to be a symbolic location in multiple ways. First, it's where the château's fruits and vegetables are cultivated and protected, drawing a connection to nature and agriculture. Given that the Jacquemus family were farmers who harvested fruits and vegetables, this connection becomes clear and meaningful. Second, the interior of the l'Orangerie itself exudes rural charm. Built entirely of stone and never renovated, the l'Orangerie highlights the beauty of simplicity and naturalness, two characteristics of Jacquemus's core brand identity. Additionally, there are many other details that made Le Paysan unique and personal. Alongside a number of first-class celebrities, Simon's family was there, including his grandmother Liline, who regularly attends. On top of that, Simon was surprised by his grandfather, who had never attended a show in person before. The designer recalled that his mother had wanted to sell her car to help pay for his education in Paris, but his grandfather insisted on paying for it himself. Now, seventeen years later, the circle closed when Simon presented his most personal collection at Fashion Week, with his grandfather sitting in the front row.
The show could have started like any other, but Simon personalized it in every way possible. As attendees waited for it to begin, an eight-year-old boy wearing plain clothes ran down the runway and opened the doors to the l'Orangerie, allowing the models to present Jacquemus's Spring/Summer 2026 collection. The young boy was a nod to Simon, who grew up in southern France as the son of farmers and dreamed of becoming a designer. His family supported him every step of the way, encouraging him to be whatever he wanted to be. One memory stands out: When Simon was about eight, he made a skirt for his mother out of a linen curtain. She wore it proudly when picking him up from school.

The collection, consisting of 61 looks, blends rural elements, simplicity, elegance, and humor while telling Simon's personal story. It's also an homage to craftsmanship, marked by meticulous handwork and great attention to detail. Simon wrote on Instagram: "I want[ed] to create an autobiographic journey for June: one that begins in the countryside, soft and minimal, with linen as the foundation. From there, it gradually transforms, blossoming into an explosion of bonbon hues, stripes, embroidery, and prints. Various colors emerge, all connected culminating in a look that is totally couture". Le Paysan has brought this idea to life. The designs feature various interpretations of aprons paired with tulle, poplin, and jupons. Additionally, Jacquemus incorporates its signature square-round neckline. Besides, tassels are part of many designs, echoing the idea of curtains, while espadrilles and headscarves refer to the rural lifestyle. One particular dress was adorned with a belt reminiscent of a Taiolo, which was traditionally worn during hard work to stabilize the waist and prevent back pain. Another one, reminiscent of a round, wide ball gown, calls to mind an Édredon—a quilt commonly used in old-fashioned rural households to protect against the cold. Thus, Simon has proven that traditional elements representing simplicity and plainness can be transformed into an echo of rural creativity and inspiration.

Furthermore, we could see the work of les petits mains in all its glory. For instance: Jacquemus presented a bobbin tulle dress made of 700 meters of sheer mousse and a sleeveless dress adorned with 3,000 hand-cut silk taffeta calissons on muslin. The diamond shape of the calissons is incorporated into various designs, forming a continuum within the collection. Calissons are actually a traditional French confection from Provence made with ground almonds and candied melon - Simon shared that he offers them to guests during appointments.

Furthermore, we had the opportunity to admire stunning wedding dresses. One dress was made with 35 meters of fabric and three layered petticoats. It was adorned with lace and polka-dot poplin embroidery. Another dress was a crocheted piece handcrafted from 60 doilies in Marseille by Les Mains de Mamie, a knitwear company founded in 2019 that employs a network of around 150 grandmothers to knit, embroider, and crochet.

Jacquemus is certainly well-known for the humorous and fun elements he incorporates into his designs. Le Paysan didn't disappoint in this regard. This time, Jacquemus presented tennis shoes that looked like an orange with a green leaf, symbolically referencing the show's location. Additionally, Simon presented a handbag shaped like a leek, a leather crate of cherries, and a leather cluster of garlic on the runway. Therewith, Jacquemus once again reinterpreted the seemingly improbable in an unconventional way, emphasizing the beauty of plainness and connection to simplicity.

Overall, Le Paysan combined subdued colors with select bright ones. One example is the sunflower yellow worn by Angelina Kendall. Her look is called Liline, named after Simon's grandmother, the sun of the family. On top of that, Simon incorporated various fabrics into his designs, shaping them into distinctive silhouettes — from tulle to full-on leather. Jacquemus also presented a new handbag called Le Valérie, named after Simon's mother, who passed away shortly after he moved to Paris following high school. Since Jacquemus is an homage to his mother, the emotional value that Simon incorporated into Le Paysan is also evident in his decision to name the first handbag after her. Besides, Alex Consani who presented a jersey dress that looked like a shawl gathered at the waist and adorned with tassels on the sleeves, wore a cross chain that belonged to Simon's mother. A sign of unconditional love, symbolizing that the young boy who once created a skirt for his mother out of a curtain and had big dreams has made it to the top of luxury fashion.
Le Paysan isn't an ordinary collection. It's Simon's love letter to his roots, childhood, and family - a celebration of simplicity and the ordinary things in life. Jacquemus created a collection with exceptional attention to detail, craftsmanship, and creativity. Once again, Simon showcased his talent for storytelling, infusing poetry, intimacy, and emotion into the catwalk. Le Paysan is the realization of a young boy's dream, reminding us to keep dreaming ourselves and chasing after what our hearts ache for.

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