First Steps, Fierce Statements: Inside the Season's Most Exciting Debuts
Fashion Week has just taken place, showcasing the creative narratives of many designers presenting their first collections for luxury fashion powerhouses: Chanel, Dior, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Gucci, and more — a total of 15 designers. Thus, the SS26 fashion season can undoubtedly be considered a pivotal and historic moment in the world of luxury fashion, embracing new, bold visions.
Let's take a closer look at some of the most talked about designer debuts of this season.
Chanel
Chanel has probably been the most attention-grabbing show this season, with Matthieu Blazy presenting his debut collection — and it absolutely didn't disappoint. The presentation took place in the Grand Palais, which had been remodeled as a planetarium. Large, luminous planets hung from the ceiling, creating an atmosphere that promised much was to come. And it did deliver. Blazy engaged in a visual dialogue with Gabrielle Chanel, reinterpreting the founder's stylistic codes in a refined and unforgettable way. We spotted sophisticated suits that blended masculine and feminine elegance, as well as blouse shirts combined with asymmetrical skirts and a variety of effortless dresses. The collection featured various details, such as feathers and quilting, and incorporated Chanel's signature materials, including tweed, silk, and jersey. Blazy also managed to create a symbiosis of edgy yet elegant and refined elements. For instance, he reinterpreted the classic 2.55 bag by creating a crushed version.
Dior
Jonathan Anderson also made his highly anticipated debut at Paris Fashion Week. He is now the first sole creative director at Dior since its founder, Christian Dior, overseeing all of the Maison's lines. For his debut collection, Anderson reinterpreted Dior's archives in his own distinctive way, offering a fresh perspective on the House's rich tradition. Therefore, he took classic silhouettes and elements and designed contemporary versions. The iconic Bar Jacket, for instance, is now available in an overly shrunken, cropped version. Anderson also created a "New Look" that matches the zeitgeist. Besides, the collection included commercial pieces, such as miniskirts, as well as audacious items, such as lampshade headpieces.
Bottega Veneta
Louise Trotter presented Bottega Veneta's SS26 collection in Milan. She is currently the only woman to hold the position of creative director at a major luxury fashion house. In previewing her debut presentation, Trotter said: "The most beautiful thing about Bottega Veneta is that it's really a workshop. Craft has been the way we innovate... Artisans and creatives working together to find solutions." This description certainly applies to her collection, as she drew inspiration from Bottega's Intrecciatio technique to create new, refined, and astonishing pieces. For example, she designed a regal cape that took 4,000 hours to make. Moreover, she placed great importance on the art of movement. Therefore, Trotter included fluid dresses with tassels, perfectly tailored suits, and audacious red, orange, and silver-blue sweaters made of recycled fiberglass. The designer effortlessly balanced earth tones and bright colors, combining them with a simple appreciation of movement to create a spectacular collection that impresses with its materials, craftsmanship, and creativity.
Balenciaga
When Pierpaolo Piccioli debuted at Balenciaga, he introduced a new sense of lightness and softness to the House. Therefore, he paired the luxury brand's core identity with a contemporary vision of the future. Piccioli also paid tribute to the fashion house's founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, by designing a straight black gown reminiscent of Cristóbal's 1957 Sack dress. There were also other interpretations of the Sack dress, as well as bold skirts made from the founder's signature gazar fabric, which gave them a sculptural look. Additionally, many looks were paired with elegant opera gloves and oversized sunglasses, referencing former designer Demna. Overall, Piccioli combined Balenciaga's influences to create a new era of bold softness.
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