A Walking Gallery: Yves Saint Laurent's Designs Inspired by Art

Throughout his career, Yves Saint Laurent drew inspiration from various artists. Picasso, Matisse, and Mondrian, for example, all played significant roles in the designer's work. By reinterpreting contemporary and ancient artworks, Saint Laurent demonstrated how craftsmanship and creativity can set their soul in motion. "I have not copied them—who would venture to do so?" he said. Instead, he gave masterpieces a new stage, making the runway their new gallery.

"For me, art is the greatest form of expression. I try to bring the same creativity and emotion into my designs."
Yves Saint Laurent

Mondrian
In 1965, Yves paid tribute to an artist for the first time, presenting fashion and art in a new light and showing their deep connection. One notable example is his Robe Hommage à Piet Mondrian, a deliberate design characterized by elegance and incredible craftsmanship. Though the dress appears straight, mirroring Mondrian's artwork with clean lines and perfect geometric rectangles, it actually follows the body's shape, creating a flattering silhouette. Furthermore, the rectangles aren't simply printed on the fabric but are sewn together separately, making the darts and seams appear invisible. This design was the main source of Mondrian's fame. Previously known only to art historians, Mondrian's work now attracted the attention of a wider public. Four years later, in 1969, the Centre Pompidou in Paris curated the Dutch painter's first retrospective, and in 1975, his work became part of the museum's permanent collection.
Picasso
As one of the co-founders of Cubism, Picasso's paintings had a profound influence on Yves Saint Laurent and his work. Indeed, no other artist inspired the couturier as much as Picasso did, providing an enduring source of inspiration for the designer. "Picasso is pure genius. [His work] bursts with life and honesty," said Saint Laurent, underscoring the importance of the painter to his designs. For instance, he took inspiration from Pablo's Portrait of Nusch Eluard (1937) to design a navy blue jacket bearing a striking resemblance to the painting.
Van Gogh
For the Spring/Summer 1988 collection, Yves turned the spotlight on Vincent van Gogh's Sunflowers and Irises. The designer brought Van Gogh's pieces of art to life by designing two jackets that were meticulously embroidered by the Maison Lesage. Each jacket is characterized by a multitude of details and nuances that Saint Laurent incorporated into his designs. It took over 600 hours to create each jacket, making them some of the most expensive haute couture garments in the world.
Matisse
Henri Matisse was also one of Yves Saint Laurent's most admired artists. As a result, Matisse's paintings inspired the designer in many ways. La Danse inachevée, for example, is one of the paintings Matisse created for American art collector Dr. Albert Barnes and is still on display at the Barnes Foundation. Moreover, in 1981, Yves designed a Romanian blouse inspired by Matisse's 1940 painting La Blouse Roumaine, reinterpreting traditional Romanian clothing.
Bonnard
In 2001, Yves was captivated by the beauty of Pierre Bonnard's gardens. Inspired by the authenticity and effortlessness conveyed in the artist's paintings, Saint Laurent designed dresses to reflect these qualities. By using several harmonious and vibrant colors, Yves gives the dresses a particularly mesmerizing lightness.
Proust
Although Proust was a writer, he — and particularly his novel In Search of Lost Time — was an early inspiration for the designer. Some even say that Proust indirectly inspired Saint Laurent's famous Le Smoking, with which the couturier not only pioneered the fashion world, but also challenged prevailing social attitudes. Furthermore, in 1971, Saint Laurent was commissioned to design costumes for the Baron de Rothschild's Proust Ball at the Château de Ferrières. Therefore, he designed gowns for attendees such as Jane Birkin and the Baroness.

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